RESOURCES
<< back to Frequently Asked Questions
Valves
WHEN MY VALVES OPEN AND/OR
CLOSEd THERE IS A LOUD THUMPING, BANGING NOISE IN THE PIPES.
WHAT IS IT?
The sound you are hearing is called waterhammer.
This is something you will want to correct, as it can
cause damage to your pipes and equipment over a period
of time. If the water velocity in your pipes is too high,
the valves may be slamming shut, causing the waterhammer.
If you have flow control valves, turn them down to help
to lessen the problem. Another way to alleviate this problem
is to purchase a waterhammer suppressor at you local plumbing
supply house and install it yourself. Using a larger supply
line from the water source to the valves also helps reduce
waterhammer. Another reason is if your sprinkler heads
do not have check valves or the seal-o-matic (SAM) feature
and are draining water out of the heads on the lowest
point in the line. When the valve opens and sends water
down this pipe, the water hits the air and crashes into
fittings causing waterhammer. If these solutions don't
work, we recommend you consult a professional installer
to help correct the problem.
Return to Top
HOW CAN I TELL IF MY SOLENOID
IS BAD?
Here are a few things to check in determining
if your solenoid is bad. Do you see any visual hints that
the solenoid has failed, such as rust? Are the wire connections
in waterproof connections? You can also remove the solenoid
and have it tested at a local service location. An electrical
resistance test should typically indicate a reading between
20 and 60 ohms for a solenoid that is operating properly.
Return to
Top
MY VALVE(S) WON'T CLOSE.
WHAT SHOULD I DO?
Before you worry, try these simple solutions.
Make sure that your valves are clean and that no debris
is blocking them. Also, if the valve was recently installed,
make sure that the flow direction arrows are pointed towards
the sprinklers. (This is a common and sometimes embarrassing
mistake that even seasoned installers can make.)
Return to
Top
HOW DO I MANUALLY OPERATE
THE RAIN BIRD VALVES ON MY SYSTEM?
To manual operate the valve, turn the solenoid
(the black device with the two wires coming out of it)
to the left 1/4 turn. This will allow the valve to manually
turn on. To turn the valve off, turn the solenoid to the
right until it is finger tight. BE SURE YOU DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!
Some valves are equipped with a small thumbscrew that
is called a bleeder screw. It is located right on top
of the valve body and can be turned ½ turn to open
the valve as well.
Return to
Top
WHAT IS A "MANIFOLD"?
The manifold is where the irrigation valves
are located. The manifold protects these valves that operate
the individual systems in your lawn. Generally speaking,
you may have one manifold in the front yard and one in
the back yard for the designated areas.
Return to
Top
MY SPRINKLER HEADS ARE LEAKING!
WHAT SHOULD I DO?
If your sprinkler heads are leaking water
after the system has turned off or are on constantly two
things may be happening. 1) The system may be draining
water out of the lowest head(s). This leakage will last
only a few minutes until the higher pipes in the system
are empty of water. (Rain Bird offers the Seal-A-Matic
(SAM) check valve to prevent puddling of water in lower
heads if this is a real problem.) 2) The valves may have
debris in them, which is not allowing the valve to shut
down completely. When this happens, water bleeds past
the valve. If this is the case, the valve must be flushed
out and cleaned of any debris. This is achieved by manually
opening the valve with the bleeder screw. Often this will
flush any debris out of the valve. If your valve is not
equipped with a bleeder screw then open the valve by turning
the solenoid (the black device with two wires coming out
of it) ¼ of a turn. Flushing the valve a couple
of times in this manner will often remove debris that
can cause the valve to leak like this. 3) Make sure your
bleeder screw and solenoid are closed finger tight (closed
clockwise). Also make sure your flow control is not open
all of the way, which can cause a valve to stick on. If
this does not fix the problem, it may be necessary to
take apart the valve and do some repairs. Be sure to turn
the mainline water line OFF before taking the valves apart.
If your valve has a diaphragm, like a DV, DVF, CP, CPF,
DAS or other similar valves you can remove the six screws
holding down the bonnet (top of valve body) and access
the diaphragm. It is rubber and will be separating the
two parts of the valve. When you take the diaphragm off
of the bonnet, be sure and note how it came off so when
you put it back on you replace it the same way. Once the
diaphragm is removed, visually inspect it for debris and
cracks. If there are cracks or splits in it then it needs
to be replaced. Next you need to put the diaphragm assembly
back into the bonnet and
reassemble the valve. If it still leaks, call Rain Bird
technical support at (800) 724-6247. If your valve is
a piston style valve (like an APAS) then call Rain Bird
technical support for help with this problem.
Return to
Top
WHERE SHOULD I LOCATE THE
ANTI-SIPHON VALVE?
The ideal location for the anti-siphon valve
is 6 to 12 inches above the highest head on the line it
is servicing. The specific location will depend on local
plumbing codes. The valve must allow a vacuum break between
the main line and the service line so water cannot be
siphoned back into the main water line.
Return to
Top
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES
IN THE VARIOUS VALVES AND WHAT TYPE OF VALVE SHOULD I
USE?
There are basically three different types
of valves on the irrigation market today. Rain Bird offers
a wide variety of options in each of these categories.
Each type of valve serves a different function. Your choice
will depend on the system's unique needs. Here are the
major differences to help you make your choices.
1) Piston Valves - This type of valve has
a piston action plunger that opens and closes as the solenoid
is activated. This type of valve is not recommended for
use on pumps and wells or where dirty water may be a factor.
2) Anti-Siphon Valves - This type of valve
may be used in many areas (check with local plumbing codes)
as the individual circuit valve. This valve MUST be located
8 to 12 inches above the highest head on the circuit.
The anti-siphon device allows the circuit to empty of
water if there is a pressure loss before the valve from
the mainline. In order for water to effectively drain,
the valve must be above ground, in a place where the water
can flow away from the valve. If the valve is situated
below the sprinkler heads, the anti-siphon device will
not seal itself and will continuously dump water from
the device until the valve is raised above the highest
head on the circuit.
3) In-Line valves - These valves are usually
placed underground in a plastic sprinkler box which helps
make them more accessible, easier to locate, easier to
do maintenance on, and easier to inspect. Direct burial
of these valves complicates all of these things and is
not recommended. Rain Bird recommends that all in-line
valves are installed horizontally. Rain Bird tests these
valves in a horizontal position with the solenoid pointing
up. This valve, in most cases, must have a backflow preventer
in front of it to protect the drinking water supply (See
local codes for specific regulations). Rain Bird also
offers a Flow Control Option that can be combined with
any of the three valve types. This allows the user to
regulate, at the individual valve, the flow of water going
to the circuit. With this feature, you are able to mix
low-pressure sprinkler circuits in the same design as
high-pressure circuits without regulating the entire underground
system.
Return to
Top
HOW DO I KNOW WHICH VALVE
TYPE TO USE?
Local codes usually dictate the type of
valve you are allowed to use - whether it's the globe
or anti-siphon design. Some cities and towns allow anti-siphon
valves, while other cities require back flow preventers.
Check with your water company or local building codes
to find out which type of valve they require.
Return to Top
|
